Shivaratri

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Tonight one of the holiest festivals honoring Shiva begins. Shivaratri is the celebration of the transformation of the dark to the light and the power of destruction in creation. Although Hindus all over the world will be celebrating, Varanasi is the home of Shiva, where all creation began, so here the festivals have special meaning. The city is buzzing with preparations and from what we have heard, the whole festival is transformative - as one informant said, "you from the outside will come to the inside." The festival begins tonight for the pilgrims with a ritual bathing in the Ganga at the Burning Ghat, and then an 85 kilometer walk though the city from holy site to holy site where ritual pujas (ceremonies) are held to honor Shiva. This walk takes 14 hours and will end at noon tomorrow. The activities (dancing, music, fire festivals, and the drinking of lahssis laced with bhong) go on all night.

I walked the Ghats this morning early, and could see that the crowds were gathering, laundry getting done and preparations made. The Saddhus (holy men) were doing their puja rituals as the sun rose. Devotion is a critical part of Hindu life, and the sense of worship is all aspects of the day is palpable. There are altars to Shiva (this is Shiva's city) everywhere in the city, some in large temples, and some just built into a small cavity in the wall. Candles are floated on the Ganga, garlands strung around statues of Shiva and Paravati (Shiva's consort), milk is poured over lingums all across the city.

In the evening the fire pujas are performed at the edge of the river. Worshipers gather on the stairs and in boats on the river to watch the holy men perform the rituals, which are more like a dance. Ragas are playing loudly over big speakers and fill the night air with a repeated pulse of Shiva's name - a hymn of praise.

On Shivartri, all Hindus want to visit the temples to perform the rituals of worship, and the lines stretch for miles. Some folks will wait in line for 5-6 hours to perform a ten minute worship ritual, pouring milk, yoghurt or honey over the lingum that represents Shiva's creative power, the creation that is the transformation of destruction. The new balance created out of disequilibrium.

Tonight (now Monday), the grand procession begins and a festival that I guess rivals Carnival, with naked Saddhus, dancing, music, parades and street drinks laced with bhong (marajuana). The participants carry bags of dry rice and throw handfulls in to bowls that the beggers raise up along the route. Most of the participants in the evening are men and the crowds get a little scary with all the crazy energy of a frat party gone wild. We are making plans to protect the young women while still letting them see some of the festival.

During the daytime, however, many women are also part of the festival and it is quite calm now.

Blessings to you all on this holy day.

M